Men’s hair styling products differ mainly in how much hold they give and how much shine they leave. Pomade and gel shine, clay and paste look matte, wax gives workable grip, and creams and mousse give a softer, flexible hold. Here is what each suits, how to apply and wash it out, and how to keep the hairline clear.
Key takeaways
- Match the product to the hair type and finish (shine or matte), then pick the hold. Labels vary by brand.
- Water-based products go on damp hair and rinse out with shampoo. Oil-based pomade goes on dry hair and needs conditioner on dry hair, then shampoo, to come out.
- Start small, about a pea to a dime, and warm it between the palms. Add more in layers.
- Tiny bumps along the hairline, forehead or back of the neck can come from oily styling products; the AAD calls it pomade acne. Keep oils off the skin and wash pillowcases and hats.
Hold vs shine: how men’s styling products compare
Hold is how firmly a product keeps hair in place, from light to strong. Shine runs from matte to wet-look. Reuzel’s pomade guide adds a third idea, weight: water-based formulas feel lighter, oil-based ones heavier. Names on the lid are loose (Reuzel says the category labels were set by marketing departments, not chemists), so treat the table as typical ranges and check the hold and shine on the product itself.
| Type | Typical hold | Typical finish | Suits | Apply to |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pomade, water-based | Medium to strong | Medium to high shine | Combed styles: slick back, pompadour, side part | Damp hair |
| Pomade, oil-based (grease) | Medium to strong | Shine; never dries | Thick, coarse or curly hair; humid days | Dry hair |
| Wax | Strong, buildable | Low to medium shine | Short to medium textured cuts, flyaways | Towel-dried or dry hair |
| Clay | Strong, reworkable | Matte | Fine hair, textured crops, messy styles | Dry or towel-dried hair |
| Paste | Medium | Low shine to matte | Texture and definition, various lengths | Damp or dry hair |
| Cream | Light to medium, flexible | Natural to medium shine | Most hair types; first-time users | Damp or dry hair |
| Gel | Highest; sets firm | High shine, wet look | Sharp, structured styles | Damp or towel-dried hair |
| Mousse | Soft, flexible | Low to medium | Volume, curls, a base under other products | Wet or damp hair |
Compiled from Reuzel, American Crew, KMS and Johnny B product guides and the International Journal of Trichology. Hairspray finishes any of these; see our Kenra hairspray numbers guide for Kenra’s 0 to 30 hold scale.
Each product type: what it does and who it suits
Pomade
Pomade is the barbershop classic for combed styles; Reuzel says its strength is glide, which a pompadour or sharp side part needs. Reuzel describes two families. Water-based pomade has a gel-like feel, dries in place with high hold and rinses out with shampoo. Oil-based pomade, or grease, is beeswax and oil: it never dries, stays pliable, resists humidity and can be re-combed all day, but it does not rinse out with water alone. Heavier oil-based formulas suit thick, coarse or curly hair and weigh fine hair down.
Wax
Reuzel defines hair wax as a thick product built traditionally on beeswax or rosin that never fully dries, so it stays tacky and can be reworked hours later. It gives less shine than pomade and more grip than clay, and suits short to medium textured cuts. Warm it in the palms longer than pomade. A wax stick glides straight onto the hair to tame flyaways on sleek looks such as a low bun or slick ponytail.
Clay
Clay is built on kaolin, bentonite or both, according to Reuzel. It gives the most matte finish and a strong hold that stays reworkable. Reuzel says it coats each strand, absorbs some oil at the root and makes fine hair look fuller, so it suits textured crops and messy, natural styles. Use it on dry or towel-dried hair; clay on soaking-wet hair is wasted, Reuzel says.
Paste
Paste is for texture. American Crew describes its Defining Paste as medium hold with low shine, a wax-like consistency that gives a matte finish yet spreads easily, worked into damp or dry hair. The brand says its Fiber, with strong, pliable hold and a matte finish, works well on hair 1 to 3 inches long. Expect a piecey look rather than a slick one.
Cream
Creams give a softer, flexible hold. American Crew calls its Forming Cream medium hold, medium shine, for all hair types and a good first jar product, and its Fiber Cream a mix of flexibility and control with natural shine for short to medium hair. Creams usually go on damp or dry hair.
Gel
Gel gives the highest hold, the most shine and the least flexibility. Reuzel puts it plainly: once gel sets, it stays set until you wash it out, with a wet look. That suits a rigid slick back. Apply it to damp or towel-dried hair. Traditional gels earned a reputation for crunch and flakes, Reuzel notes; some newer gels are sold as non-flaking.
Mousse
Mousse is a foam worked into wet hair before drying. A dermatology review in the International Journal of Trichology describes mousses as leave-on, water-based or water-and-alcohol products that do not form rigid bonds but help strands hold together and help a style last. Expect soft, flexible hold and lift, good for curls and as a base layer.
Damp or dry hair? How to apply men’s styling products
Reuzel lists four mistakes barbers see every week: too much product, not warming it in the palms, fighting the hair type, and the wrong moisture level.
- Start with clean, towel-dried hair. Water-based pomade, gel and mousse go on damp hair; oil-based pomade on dry hair; clay and wax on dry or towel-dried hair. Creams and pastes work either way.
- Take less than you think. Reuzel suggests a dime-sized amount for most hair and a pea for fine hair; Rusk’s cream directions say a modest amount on wet hair, pearl-sized additions on dry hair.
- Warm it between the palms into an even, nearly invisible film, or it lands in one clump.
- Work back to front, roots to ends, so the front isn’t overloaded (Reuzel).
- Shape it. A comb for slick, polished styles; fingers for texture.
- Add more in thin layers only if needed.
Barbers also “cocktail” products: a pre-styler on damp hair, then a finisher on dry hair (Reuzel).
How to wash out pomade: water-based vs oil-based
Water-based clay, pomade, wax and gel come out with a normal shampoo, Reuzel says; heavy daily users can add a deeper cleanse once or twice a week. Oil-based pomade is made to resist water.
Compiled from Reuzel’s removal directions.
- Apply conditioner to dry hair, before wetting it, and massage it through so it breaks down the oils and wax.
- Rinse.
- Shampoo with a clarifying or deep-cleansing shampoo.
- Follow with your regular shampoo if any residue remains.
Shampoo regularly so product does not build up on the scalp.
See our clarifying shampoo guide for when a deeper cleanse makes sense.
Pomade acne: keeping the hairline, forehead and scalp clear
The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) says oils in hair care products can reach the skin and clog pores, causing whiteheads and tiny skin-colored bumps along the hairline, upper forehead or back of the neck, sometimes felt before they are seen. It is common enough to have a name, pomade acne, and a styling product with a lot of oil, such as a pomade, is a likely culprit. Gels, waxes, pastes, sprays, shampoos, conditioners, shaving creams and aftershaves can contain oil too. The AAD suggests:
- Switch to a product that contains water or glycerin instead of oil.
- Keep hair oil to the middle of the scalp and the ends of the hair.
- If the culprit isn’t obvious, use products labeled “oil free,” “non-comedogenic,” “non-acnegenic” or “won’t clog pores.”
- Wash everything your head touches: pillowcases, sheets, caps, hats, headbands and visors.
- Shampoo regularly; with oily hair, shampoo more often and keep hair off the face.
Once the product stops touching the skin, the AAD says it can take 4 to 6 weeks to clear; if not clear by about 6 weeks, see a dermatologist.
For barbers: bumps on the back of the neck or scalp are not always pomade acne. The AAD says acne keloidalis nuchae is often mistaken for acne or razor bumps there, is most common in Black men, and can cause raised scars and hair loss without treatment. Suggest a board-certified dermatologist.
Don’t overload: common mistakes, and beards
- Too much product. Reuzel says these products are more concentrated than they look; start with less than half of what you think you need. Extra product is extra residue on pillowcases and hats.
- Wrong product for the hair type. Fine hair under heavy grease stays flat; thick curly hair under a light clay springs back by mid-morning (Reuzel).
- Skipping washes. Reuzel says buildup from skipped washes, not the product itself, is the real risk.
- Hair product on the beard. The AAD suggests beard oil for normal to dry skin, beard conditioner for acne-prone skin and a fragrance-free, non-comedogenic moisturizer for sensitive skin, used sparingly. More in our beard care basics.
At OBB
- Kenra Style Control Stick 22: Kenra calls it a hair wax stick with medium to high hold and a natural, non-greasy-looking finish that tames flyaways.
- AG Care Molding Cream Sculpt and Style: AG says it molds and sets any hair length with texture and a polished shine, washes out easily, and goes on damp or dry hair.
- Rusk Wired Flexible Styling Cream: Rusk describes flexible body, texture and hold for all hair types, on wet or dry hair.
- KMS HairPlay Styling Gel: KMS says it gives glossy shine and long-lasting hold with no flaking or build-up, for straight to coily hair; air-dry for a wet look.
- Johnny B Foundation Mousse: Johnny B rates it 6/10 hold and 4/10 shine, for wet hair, alone or under pomade.
- For beards: Woody’s Beard & Tattoo Oil, fragrance-free with moringa, macadamia and argan oils, per Woody’s, and GIBS Beard, Hair & Tattoo Oil (Alpha Male), with olive, argan and sunflower seed oils and a vanilla, sandalwood and white musk scent, per GIBS.
- After a neck shave: Reuzel Wood & Spice Aftershave, which Reuzel says soothes and cools the skin after shaving.
Call or text (949) 591-5304 with your list and we will confirm stock and pricing, then pick up at our Westminster store.
Related reading: Kenra hairspray numbers explained, beard care basics and clarifying shampoo guide.
FAQ
What is the difference between pomade, wax and clay?
Pomade shines and lets a comb glide, for slick styles. Wax gives tacky, workable grip with low to medium shine. Clay gives a matte finish and texture, and Reuzel says it suits fine hair.
Is water-based or oil-based pomade better?
Water-based pomade rinses out with shampoo. Oil-based pomade resists humidity but needs conditioner on dry hair, then shampoo. If the forehead breaks out, the AAD suggests products with water or glycerin instead of oil.
Should I put styling product on wet or dry hair?
Water-based pomade, gel and mousse go on damp hair; oil-based pomade, clay and wax on dry or towel-dried hair. Creams and pastes work on either.
How much pomade or clay should I use?
About a dime-sized amount for most hair and a pea for fine hair, warmed in the palms. Add more in thin layers.
Can hair products cause acne on the forehead?
Yes. The AAD says oily hair products can clog pores along the hairline, forehead and back of the neck. See a dermatologist if it hasn’t cleared about 6 weeks after stopping the product.
Sources
- American Academy of Dermatology, Are your hair care products causing breakouts?
- American Academy of Dermatology, 10 tips for clearing acne in darker skin tones (pomade acne), Acne: Tips for managing and Acne: Who gets and causes
- American Academy of Dermatology, Acne keloidalis nuchae: Overview
- American Academy of Dermatology, A dermatologist’s top tips for a healthy beard
- International Journal of Trichology (Gavazzoni Dias, 2015), Hair Cosmetics: An Overview
- Reuzel, Hair Clay vs Pomade vs Wax vs Gel: Which to Use, How to Choose Pomade Weight and Hold and Water-Soluble Pomade vs. Oil-Based Pomade
- American Crew, Men’s Grooming Tips (Defining Paste, Fiber, Forming Cream, Fiber Cream)
- Kenra Professional, Style Control Stick 22
- AG Care, Molding Cream Sculpt and Style
- Rusk Professional, Wired Flexible Styling Cream
- KMS, HairPlay Styling Gel
- Johnny B, Foundation Mousse
- Woody’s, Beard & Tattoo Oil; GIBS Grooming, Beard, Hair & Tattoo Oil: Alpha Male; Reuzel, Wood & Spice Aftershave
This article is general information for barbers, stylists and clients, not medical advice. Follow the directions on each product, and see a dermatologist for breakouts or bumps that don’t clear.