The Free Edge Is the First Point of Failure — and the First Structure a Technician Must Control

Ask any experienced technician:

Where does almost every nail break?
→ The free edge.

Where does peeling begin?
→ The free edge.

Where do cracks initiate — vertical, diagonal, or corner?
→ The free edge.

The free edge is the weakest anatomical zone of the nail and the strongest predictor of breakage. It carries:

• the entire applied force of every movement

• the full leverage of nail length

• the bending pressure of daily habits

• the first point of impact

As the nail grows past the fingertip, it loses the support of the nail bed —
and becomes its own independent structure.

This guide explains why the free edge fails, how to diagnose the type of collapse, and how to reinforce it properly using OBB’s professional system.

1. Anatomical Breakdown: Why the Free Edge Is Structurally Weak

Once the nail extends beyond the hyponychium:

✔ It loses structural support

The ventral layer no longer adheres to the nail bed.

✔ Hydration decreases

Keratin becomes dry = brittle.

✔ Mechanical stress increases

Movement = bending, torque, impact.

✔ Keratin layers separate faster

The dorsal + intermediate + ventral layers behave independently.

✔ Micro-fractures accumulate

Small stress events become major cracks.

For technicians, understanding this natural weakness is essential when shaping, filing, and reinforcing.

2. The Mechanics Behind Free Edge Failure

A. Leverage Force

The longer the nail → the more torque applied at the free edge.

Even a 1 mm impact can multiply into 10–20× pressure on the nail tip.

B. Impact Force

All taps, knocks, typing, gripping, pushing → hit the tip first.

C. Bending Force

Soft or flat nails bend, leading to peeling.

D. Compression Force

Hard/brittle nails crack because they can’t flex under pressure.

The free edge is where these forces converge.

3. Technician Classification: The Four Types of Free Edge Collapse

Every breakage at the tip fits into one of these four categories.

1. Center Collapse → Vertical Split or Peeling

Characteristics:

• flat nails

• thin or dehydrated center

• weak keratin density

Break pattern:

• vertical crack

• central peeling

• free edge bending upward or downward

2. Corner Collapse → Side Cracks or Chips

Characteristics:

• thin sidewalls

• aggressive square/tapered square shaping

• tight C-curve

Break pattern:

• chipped corners

• diagonal cracks from the corner inward

• lateral peeling

3. Diagonal Collapse → Angled Break Lines

Characteristics:

• twisting plate

• asymmetrical curvature

• uneven filing

Break pattern:

• angled fracture from one side

• break that travels across the tip

4. Layer Separation Collapse → Peeling of Keratin Layers

Characteristics:

• over-buffing

• inconsistent keratin thickness

• dehydration

• soft nail types

Break pattern:

• laminate-style peeling

• papery free edge

• collapse under minimal pressure

4. Technician Diagnostic Checklist

Use this process when a client consistently breaks at the tip.

Step 1: Examine Free Edge Symmetry

Is one corner thinner? Is the center bendable?

Step 2: Identify Break History

Breaks in identical places = predictable collapse zone.

Step 3: Evaluate C-Curve

Flat → center collapse
Tight → corner collapse
Downward curve → tip collapse

Step 4: Assess Keratin Density

Soft → peeling
Hard → cracking
Uneven → diagonal breaks

Step 5: Check Filing Patterns

Over-filing = manufactured weak points.

Step 6: Observe Client Habits

Phone grip, typing, tapping = diagonal or center pressure.

5. How Shape Influences Free Edge Survival

Different shapes shift tension differently.